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2003 Oregon Pinot Noir Reserve

(updated May 1, 2006)

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The Wine

We look for this wine to embody the essence of pinot noir. Select barrels and fermentation lots are chosen from Ridgecrest Vineyards before any blending is done in the cellar. We choose components to make a wine that epitomizes finesse, elegance, complexity, textural silkiness, and palate breadth and length for the vintage. We think these elements are what pinot noir is all about—not as big and macho as we can make it, but as beautiful and feminine as we can make it. Its balance makes it optimally ageable.

NOTE: beginning in 2002 vintage, we gave Patrice RION his name back, having thanked him for 8 vintages for help he gave in the mid 90s by naming this wine for him—his new negociant brand would seem to benefit from fewer Rions in the marketplace. Thanks again, Patrice.

The Vineyard

To date, our Reserve has used fruit exclusively from Ridgecrest Vineyards, our oldest estate vineyard, a 37-acre vineyard on a 72-acre property. Beginning in 1980, this site pioneered grapegrowing on Ribbon Ridge, a small ridge on the western end of the Chehalem Mountains. Soils are a Willakenzie soil called Wellsdale, a transition soil series exhibiting characteristics of both volcanic and ocean sedimentary underlying structures. The rich, supple black cherry and blackberry fruits are characteristic of Ridgecrest Vineyards and the Willakenzie soil type. Excellent acidity, silky texture and a long finish are hallmarks of the vineyard site, being relatively high in elevation, mature in vine age and deeply rooted.

The Vintage

This is an excellent vintage, albeit unusual in the fiery nature of the growing season. The same dry and warm growing and ripening seasons held for 2003 as with the past few vintages, only more so, with Region II (not cool climate!) heat accumulations of 2500 units, average highs of 78F July-October and half the normal rainfall with 2.75 inches. Fruit was disease free, crop loads were easily honed to desired levels, and soil moisture was adequate due to good pre-season winter rains. Concerns of the vintage center on high sugars, with resultant high alcohols, and low acids. Almost comparable past vintages like the excellent 1992 may urge us not to worry.

Stats

Harvest Data:

Harvested 9/26-10/10/2003, fruit coming from Ridgecrest Vineyards (66%), Stoller (17%) and Corral Creek (17%), with sugars of 24.3-26.0 brix; acids of 4.2-5.6 g/L; pHs of 3.25-3.55; from yields of 1.8-3.2 tons/acre

Fermentation:

8-17 day total fermentation time, with 2-10 day cold macerations, with enzyme; native ferments on Ridgecrest fruit and SIHA 8, BRG and RC212 yeasts with Stoller and Corral Creek; 1-2.25 g/L tartaric added at fermentation; Average 6% whole cluster

Cooperage/Aging:

Aged for 11 months in French oak, with 64% new, 92% new or once-used barrels

Clonal Selection:

Pommard, Wadenswil, 115, 113 clones

Bottling:

Bottled on 9/8/2004

Bottling Analyses:

15.4% alcohol; 3.54 pH; 5.9 g/L TA

Cases Produced:

1,646 6-bottle cases

Suggested Retail:

$60

Release Date:

October, 2005

Winemaker's Comments

Deeply colored, garnet to red-black; a dusty, high spice, citrus peel, mixed fruit cobbler nose, with highlights of blue fruited huckleberry; firm, round mid-palate, with lifted, scintillating aromatics and textures; very complex; balanced, showing no alcohol. The first year we have blended all three vineyards into this top Pinot noir. It works to produce a feminine Pinot noir in a very big year.

Quotes

Pinot Report, December 15, 2005: 93. Medium-deep ruby purple color; deep earthy aromas dominate the nose, some fruit underneath; deep, rich, good berry fruit, earthy, forest floor notes; toasty oak, moderate tannin; good structure and balance; long finish. A big style of Pinot but everything is also in balance.

The Wine Advocate, June 2006, Pierre Rovani: 92. ...This terrific wine's aromas display spicy black fruits and candied red berries. Suave, satin-textured, and broad, it is powerful, exceptionally well-balanced (with 15.4% alcohol, no less!), and intense. This deeply concentrated wine is loaded with fruit and seemingly never stops expanding on the palate. Its red cherry and blackberry flavors linger throughout its angle-free, lengthy finish. Drink this beauty over the next 10 years.

Wine Spectator, December 31, 2005, Harvey Steiman: 90. Ripe and rich…fleshy with black cherry, kirsch, peppermint and a touch of game as the finish persists impressively. Has fine tannins and should age smoothly.

International Wine Cellar, May/June 2005, “Focus on Oregon Pinot Noir,” Josh Raynolds: 90. Very fresh, red color. Bright, finely focused red berry aromas, with a mineral tone. Loaded with bright, fresh, vivid raspberry and wild strawberry flavors, with an almost salty mineral tang. Very fresh and stylish, with gentle, well-judged oak spice on the long, clean finish.

Gourmet, November 2006, Gerald Asher: Recommended. For the turkey and side dishes, I chose an Oregon Pinot Noir...concentration can be found in Chehalem's Reserve '03...

Decanter, April 2006, Jean Wareing: Recommended. Smoky black cassis fruit. Juicy crisp fruit, extraction, weight, black and intense with toasty, spicy oak…

Burghound.com, October, 2005 Allen Meadows: 85. An extremely ripe, moderately oaky nose of earth and crushed black and blueberry aromas merges into round, sweet and extremely rich flavors that display distinct notes of mocha and blackberry liqueur on the somewhat edgy and warm finish.

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