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1998 Ridgecrest Vineyards Pinot Noir

(updated 7/20/01)

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The Wine

This wine is one of three vineyard-designated Pinot noirs we produce. Chehalem has made a Ridgecrest Vineyards Pinot noir since its first release in 1990, with selected barrels going to an upper-end elegant Rion Reserve from Ridgecrest and several not hitting the mark being designated 3-Vineyard. It is characteristically brawny, briery, dusty black-fruited, and occasionally currant or cassis. Deep sweet fruit has been balanced with fine tannin structure in recent years which, with good acidic structure gives good ageability.

The Vineyard

Our oldest estate vineyard, Ridgecrest is a 37 acre vineyard on a 72 acre property. Beginning in 1980, this site pioneered grapegrowing on Ribbon Ridge, a small ridge on the western end of the Chehalem Range and Valley. Soils are Willakenzie, a transition soil series exhibiting characteristics of both volcanic and sedimentary underlying structures. The rich, supple black cherry and blackberry fruits are characteristic of Ridgecrest Vineyard and the Willakenzie soil type. Excellent acidity and a finesseful texture and finish are hallmarks of the vineyard site, being relatively high in elevation, mature in vine age and deeply rooted.

The Vintage

The 1998 vintage is possibly the best we have yet seen in Oregon, or at least the equivalent of the highly touted 1994 vintage. The intensity of this vintage is due to a half-crop yield (e.g. 1.2 tons per acre) and perfect ripening weather at this moderately high elevation vineyard, where acidity is maintained even in ripe years.

Stats

Harvest Data:

Harvested 10/1-2/98, 84% from the Babies Block planted in 1989, harvested at 1.3 tons/acre @22.8-24.2 brix, 5.9-6.4 acid and 3.21-3.43 pH.

Fermentation:

Fermented with native (73%) and commercial yeasts (BRG) in 4 fermentations of 13-14 days total skin contact, with 6-8 days of that pre-maceration; acidulated with 0.5-1.0 g/L; pectolytic enzyme used for uniform extraction; no post maceration.

Cooperage/Aging:

Aged for 11 months with one racking in 38% new, 68% new + 1year French oak (8 coopers).

Clonal Selection:

Pommard (57%) and Wadenswil clones (43%).

Bottling:

Bottled 9/23/99 with eggwhite fining and no filtration.

Bottling Analyses:

0.01% Residual Sugar, 6.0 g/l acid, 14.1% Alcohol, 3.42 pH

Cases Produced:

996

Suggested Retail:

$39

Release Date:

August, 2000

Winemaker's Comments

In 1998 you will see black cherry, black raspberry and currant fruits in a complex, highly structured big wine that nevertheless retains excellent balance. This will be one of the stars of an excellent vintage. This is at first a big wine, but with time will show itself to be elegant and long-lived.

Quotes

Beverage Testing Institute, Tastings, Spring 2001. 91 points. Cellar Selection. Deep red-purple hue. Rich, fruit-centered aromas of black fruits and licorice. Concentrated and intense on the attack with a moderately full body and a chunky, chewy finish featuring firmer tannins. This needs some cellar time (three- to five-years).

International Wine Cellar, Steven Tanzer, March/April 2001. Deep, bright red ruby. Burgundian aromas of raspberry, plum, strawberry, meat, mulch and nutty oak. Concentrated, chunky and bright, with jammy plum, raspberry and smoke flavors ...

Wine & Spirits, April 2001, 91 Points. Built to withstand time, there's so much tannin to this youthful pinot that it's hard to perceive much at first beyond the fine depth of the color. There's the immediate hit of raspberry that comes with all three of these Chehalem '98s, but it's just as quickly taken down by the multifaceted tannin structure. The fruit lays in wait within that jewel box of tannins, slowly revealed as the wine takes on air with layers of cranberry, raspberry and strawberry, all red in tone against the black tannins. Give it several years to mellow.

Wine Spectator, February 2001, "Harvey Steiman's Hot Wines." 92 Points -- the vineyard only produced 1.3 tons per acre, and you can feel it with the wines's intensity. It is round, firm, packed with beautiful plum, berry and spice flavors, built to keep the tanins from overpowering the wine. The flavors just last and last, getting prettier by the sip. Drinkable now, but give it until 2003 or 2004 to see what develops.

Winetoday.com, September 2000: 4 stars. Comments: a rich, ripe pinot that pulls off a "big"style beautifully. General Qualities: medium-full bodied, complex, dry, balanced acidity, integrated oak, modest tannins Color: dark ruby Aromas: black cherry, earthy, licorice, plum, tar Flavors: black cherry, blueberry, coffee, earthy, spicy Other descriptors: concentrated, jammy, showy, supple, ultra ripe.