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1998 Pinot Gris Reserve

(updated 3/23/04)

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The Wine

This is the most refined we can make pinot gris in a vintage. Using Alsace as a standard, we seek weight and richness to make this more than a simple white. This is a true reserve wine, the fruit divided at harvest after full ripeness is achieved, with the reserve portion going through barrel fermentation in neutral oak, with long lees contact, full ML and a variety of yeasts — the wine is concentrated, well textured, with rich and creamy flavors and a long finish. In 1998 it carries fruit blossom and spice hints on the nose, with kiwi and wisps of lemon zest fruit flavors.

NOTES: THE RESERVE IS BARREL FERMENTED IN NEUTRAL OAK (OVER 3 YEARS OLD, THUS NOT EXTRACTING VANILLIN AND OTHER BARREL AROMAS AND FLAVORS). THIS GIVES VERY GRADUAL OXIDATION THROUGH THE PORES AND PERMITS A LONG AGING ON THE LEES (DEAD YEAST CELLS) FOR A CREAMINESS AND TEXTURE AND ROUNDNESS THAT IMPROVES THE WINE. THE RESERVE IS A FAVORITE OF MANY AND IS BOTTLED IN THE DISTINCTIVE EXTENDED NECK ANTIQUE GREEN HOCK BOTTLE (HOCK BEING THE ALSATIAN GLASS SHAPE). THIS IS THE FIRST YEAR EACH OF OUR 3 ESTATE VINEYARDS IS USED IN THE BLEND.

Stats

Harvested 9/23&4/98 (Stoller Vineyard [20%]) and 10/3&6&10/98 (Ridgecrest [46%] and Corral Creek [34%]) @21.5-23.9 brix, 6.1 acid and 3.31pH; fermented with 7 yeasts (71B, 3079, native, AC,S6U, 254,EC1118) in largely neutral oak and aged for 8 months without racking (i.e., on lees); cold stabilized and filtered; Bottled 7/9/99 @ 0.33% residual sugar, 14.5% alcohol, 5.3 g/l acid, 3.32pH. 972 cases made.

Quotes

Friends of the Vine (Japan), Spring 2001 Newsletter. ...wonderful synthesis of both Alsace and Italy. Its sleek and refreshing acid component and tropical fruit notes harken back to Italy, while its gently smoky, hazelnut nuanced aromatics and lusher textures remind one of Northern France. This 1998 Reserve is as fine a demonstration of this combination as I can imagine ...It is rich enough to stand up to grilled fish or spicier chili and ginger scented dishes. At the same time, because of its refreshing acid profile, it would make a delightful aperitif. Perhaps adaptability in all circumstances is Pinot gris' greatest virtue.

Sunday Oregonian, Heidi Yorkshire, February 25, 2001, Simply Wine. I opened this bottling with a dinner of grilled giant shrimp in Puerto Vallarta last month, and it was heaven. (Of course I take Oregon wine on vacation with me, don't you?) But I'm convinced that under less idyllic circumstances, Harry Peterson-Nedry's rich, multi-layered almost honeyed pinot gris would be a heck of a wine.

Beverage Testing Institute, July, 2000 -- 87 points. Honeyed peachy aromas show great purity. A tart entry leads to a medium-bodied palate with zesty acidity and enticing flavors. Crisp and stylish.

Wine & Spirits, April 2000 -- 91points.

Northwest Palate, March/April 2000: Very pale straw color. Yeasty aromas of spiced pear and melon, Rich and focused with ripe pear flavors. Well-balanced with an alcohol warm finis of lingering fruit and spice. Pair with grilled salmon and sorrel sauce.

Appellation, Current Pinot Gris releases from both the 1997 and 1998 Vintages... are showy without being flashy, generous without being slovenly, and brightly stylish. They make a strong case for an independent, Oregon style of Pinot Gris that belongs on anyone's "best of" list. there were some fine bottles from some exciting newcomers. Chehalem. Oregon's cool-climate ripening patterns keep acids high enough for it to be wonderfully bracing with food. the time is right for Pinot Gris, and Oregon appears to be the right place to make it happen. Paul Gregutt, from his Article on Oregon Pinot Gris.

The Wine Advocate, December 1999 — 87: ...offers smoke-imbued apple and pear scents. On the palate it is satin textured, medium-bodied, rich and possesses and explosive personality made up of apples, herbal spices and minerals. This smile-inducing wine should be consumed over the next 2 years.