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2004 Pinot Gris Reserve

(updated May 1, 2006)

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The Wine

This is the version of Pinot gris we make to gain ultimate complexity and structure. Using Alsace as a standard, we seek weight and richness to make this more than a simple white. This Pinot gris is a true reserve wine--the fruit is divided at harvest, after full ripeness is achieved, with the reserve portion going through barrel fermentation in neutral oak. With long lees contact, minor partial ML (malolactic fermentation), and a variety of yeasts, the wine is concentrated, complex, well-textured, and carries tropical fruit aromas and a tight pear flavor profile, accented with a honeyed richness.

The Vineyards

Fruit comes from our three Estate Vineyards: Ridgecrest, Stoller and Corral Creek, blended into a fully-complemented wine. The estate vineyards are planted on three different soil types, which provides complementary elements in resulting wines: Ridgecrest on Willakenzie, Stoller on Jory, and Corral Creek on Laurelwood. The interaction of clone and site add great complexity, consistency and fullness of character to blends of pinot gris, especially in an excellent vintage.

The Vintage

What a difference some rain makes! Vintage 2004 was destined to be equally hot and ripe as 2003, until we had a quenching rain in late August and then a month later. Young and early vineyards that were almost ready to harvest the first week of September could have done without the rain, but the rest (like Chehalem's) thought it a blessed relief. A short cropload, plus growing season heat make 2004 properly plump, but with restraint. An interesting vintage-almost an average of 2001, 2002, and 2003-it has perhaps a little more variability in reds and more structured, brighter whites, similar to 2002..

Stats

Harvest Data:

Harvested 9/24 to 10/5, 2004 (Ridgecrest 32%, Stoller 50%, and Corral Creek 18%) @ a range of 23.0-24.7 brix, 4.9-6.3 g/L TA, and 3.2-3.4 pH; 1-3.5 tons/acre

Fermentation:

Fermented with 6 yeasts (Native, VL3, 3079, SIHA7, VL1) in neutral oak barrels (newest had 3 previous uses), with barrel stirring and partial ML

Cooperage/Aging:

Aged for 6 months without racking (i.e., on lees); minimal ML

Bottling:

Cold stabilized and sterile filtered, bottled screwcap 4/22/2005

Bottling Analyses:

15.0 % alcohol, 6.5 g/l TA, 3.3 pH, 0.4 % residual sugar

Cases Produced:

562

Suggested Retail:

$21

Release Date:

October, 2005

Winemaker's Comments

A bright and moderately weighty Pinot gris, with good acid, a minerality and gray aromatic strains of lavender, sea salts and lemon-lime. Not overripe or bruised fruit in impression, it is bright, fresh and dry. There is good weight, a little heat and a focused white fruit core of white peach, with honeycomb. A great white year, but with reduced volumes.

Quotes

Wine Enthusiast, February 2006, Paul Gregutt: 90. Thick, weighty and ripe, with unctuous pear and stone fruit flavors. It’s blended from the three estate vineyards—Ridgecrest, Stoller and Corral Creek. The result? A classic Willamette Valley Pinot Gris, creamy and dotted with lively spice.

Wine Spectator, April 30, 2006, Harvey Steiman: 88. Smooth and round, generous with its melon and nectarine fruit, finishing on a spicy note, lingering well.

Oakland Tribune, June 7, 2006, Oregon comes a callin' with some fine pinot gris, Charles Olken. Elements of ripe peaches, flinty soil and a touch of cream come together nicely in the slow-to-unfold nose of this involving pinot gris, and the flavors that follow are every bit as deep and well-filled as promised. Medium-full-bodied and rounded in feel with a keenly placed spark of acidity enlivening its lengthy peach and mineral flavors, the wine has more range and richness than we commonly see from the grape and ranks with the best to be had.

Food & Wine, February 2006. A rich, nicely acidic white…the signature white grape of Oregon’s Willamette Valley. (Paired with Smoky Potato Soup with Bacon Croutons.)

Wine & Spirits, April 2006: One of the top 10 Restaurant Pinot Gris, as listed in Wine & Spirits Seventeenth Annual Restaurant Poll.

www.starchefs.com, May 2006, What's the Fuss with Screwcaps? (Is there a Fuss?), Jim Clarke: One of the most Alsatian of Oregon's Pinot Gris, with notes of honey, citrus, peach and flowers. Medium-bodied, with refreshing acidity.