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2004 Ian's Reserve Chardonnay, 100% Dijon Clone

(new release May 2007)

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The Wine

Entirely Dijon clone, this is our attempt to make fine white Burgundy, complete with richness, balance and great acid structure for aging. Named for Ian Peterson-Nedry who died on the first day of harvest for Dijon clones from our vineyards in 1996, it is our best white and, with vine age, may be one of the best chardonnays you've tasted. The Wine Advocate annually calls Ian's Reserve "certainly one of the finest Oregon Chardonnays I have tasted to-date." (Each year we select one of Ian's poems to appear on the back label.)

Dijon Clones

Acquired from Burgundy’s collection of clones selected at the University in Dijon as vineyard replants, Dijon clones are well suited to the cool climate of Oregon. Ripening as in Burgundy, slightly before Pinot Noir rather than two weeks afterward as was common with the original clones selected for a warmer California climate, these clones revolutionize Oregon Chardonnay. Over the last couple decades, strong cooperation between Burgundians and Oregonians, led by Raymond Bernard and David Adelsheim, respectively, resulted in a number of these clones being brought into Oregon State University’s clonal importation program, the favorites being 75, 76, 95, and 96. They have been planted throughout the valley and constitute almost exclusively the source of serious Oregon Chardonnays, including Ian’s Reserve and our INOX™.

The Vineyard

Stoller Vineyards is our newest vineyard, containing state-of-the-art clones, rootstocks, and planting densities, as well as full viticultural tools such as drip irrigation. Stoller has 75, 76, 95, and 96 Dijon Chardonnay clones, at two high densities. A warm site at the tip of the Dundee Hills, elevations range from 200–600 feet and soils are Jory, a soil series of deep, red volcanic loam. Site and clones assure full ripeness in all vintages. Some of this bottling also comes from Corral Creek Vineyards.

The Vintage

What a difference some rain makes! Vintage 2004 was destined to be equally hot and ripe as 2003, until we had a quenching rain in late August and then a month later. Young and early vineyards that were almost ready to harvest the first week of September could have done without the rain, but the rest (like Chehalem’s) thought it a blessed relief. A short cropload, plus growing-season heat make 2004 properly plump, but with restraint. An interesting vintage—almost an average of 2001, 2002, and 2003, with perhaps a little more variability in reds and more structured, brighter whites similar to 2002.

Stats

Harvest Data:

Harvested 9/28–10/6/2004 from 86% Stoller and 14% Corral Creek @ 21.4–23.6 brix, 5.4–5.5 g/L TA, and 3.39–3.54 pH; from 1.8–3.8 tons per acre cropload

Fermentation:

38% CY3079, 24% VL1, 19% Native Yeast, and 19% VL3 in French oak barrels from four coopers

Cooperage/Aging:

30% new, 30% one-use, 40% older barrels; on lees with batonage & no racking for 10 mos.

Clonal Selection:

100% Dijon-clone fruit

Bottling:

Bottled 9/5/2005 with cold stabilization and sterile filtration

Bottling Analyses:

14.5% alcohol, 3.52 pH, 5.7 g/L TA and 0.08% residual sugar

Cases Produced:

768 six-packs

Suggested Retail:

$32

Release Date:

May 2007

Winemaker's Comments

Hard to imagine better in any way. From a warm, but not hot vintage, with half-crop yields giving concentration through the roof, the weight and extract for this platinum wine make it sensual and long on the palate. Flavors are white but rich and oily, with chartreuse and tropical yellow threads; wood and alcohol are barely present in impact; and aromas are seductively fresh and floral. Great balance and velour finish. One of the couple best we’ve made. Terribly low case quantities.

Quotes

Wine & Spirits, October 2007: 91. This incandescent chardonnay seems sunlit, its golden apple and nectarine aromas lifted and bright. It’s a rich wine, balanced with succulent pear and peach flavors that are held in check by clean acidity. Everything is poised, gentle, and golden…

eRobertParker.com, October 2007, Jay Miller: 89. Chehalem is unusual for Willamette Valley in that over 50% of its production is white wine from Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay. Readers who see Chehalem’s whites should try these uniformly excellent wines.

Wine Press Northwest, Winter 2007/2008: Recommended. ...This is crafted in the style of white Burgundy, with aromas of casaba melons, minerals, toffee and citrus and flavors of apples, pears and tangerines. This is a big, fruit-driven white with a round mouth feel.