Current Newsletter > In the Vineyard

Which Grapes Are the Most Difficult to Grow?

by Molly Williams Hodgins

Molly Williams Hodgins People often ask how difficult Various grape varieties are to farm. Sometimes the question is broad: "Is it easier/more expensive to grow reds or whites?" Other times it is more specific: "Is Pinot Noir the most difficult/expensive grape to grow?" The cost question is a bit easier to answer because some blocks like our little patch of Gamay Noir are trickier to grow than Pinot Noir, but are generally not more expensive to farm.

Chehalem's particularly challenging acre of Gamay Noir aside, the general question of whether red or white varieties are more difficult to grow depends on many factors. We handle vineyard-floor management (how much if any tillage) and soil amendments the same for red and white grapes. Vineyard blocks, and even sections of blocks, are managed individually, and we do what is best for each, regardless of variety. In-season cultural practices are largely the same for all our varieties, with some exceptions. For example, leafing, when we remove some of the leaves on the shady side of the vine to allow for more sunlight and air movement in the canopy, is very important for high-quality Pinot Noir but may have negative impacts on Riesling flavors. This is because certain norisoprenoids, which are responsible for the kerosene notes in Riesling, are correlated to light. If Riesling were leafed the same as Pinot Noir or Chardonnay, it might smell more like petrol right away, and we prefer that particular character to develop over many years.


Riesling at harvest in early November, fully ripe and with a perfectly controlled amount of botrytis.

Our disease-control and prevention programs are primarily the same for all our varieties, again with the exception of Riesling. One disease we control is botrytis, a late-season bunch rot that is generally not desired in grapes destined for table wine. However, when making late-harvest dessert wines, botrytis, also known as "noble rot" is encouraged. With our Riesling, we've found a little botrytis contributes to complexity and concentrates flavors, so we occasionally omit the products that control botrytis from our Riesling program to allow for a small amount to develop late in the season.

Harvest decisions may also be slightly more difficult to make for Riesling. We harvest all our varieties, white and red, when sugars are sufficiently high, acids are balanced, and the grapes have developed ripe flavors. For Pinot Noir, imagine comparing the taste of a ripe strawberry or cherry to a slightly green one. The metric is similar for other varieties, too. Riesling is usually last to be harvested, and deciding when to pick it is frequently determined independent of sugar, acid, or pH levels, whereas for other varieties, these indices track together rather nicely. In 2008, we picked our young Riesling early and with low sugar content because it tasted perfectly ready. More commonly, we wait for the Riesling flavors, which may not develop until early November, long after everything else has been picked.

The expense of farming depends on perspective. Our farming costs per acre are similar across all varieties. However, different varieties produce different yields, and the more grapes produced per acre, the lower the cost per ton and therefore the fruit cost per bottle. Without question, Pinot Noir is the lowest yielding variety we grow, both naturally and by design. To ensure focused flavors and speedy ripening before fall rains begin, we drop some of the fruit from all our vines. With Pinot Noir vines, we tend to drop a bit more than the others because the results are worth it. A one-acre block of Pinot Noir with a certain vine and row spacing might yield 2.5 tons, but the same block planted to Chardonnay might yield 3 tons, and if planted to Pinot gris, Pinot blanc, or Riesling might yield 3.5 tons. The outlier is Grüner Veltliner. Although we don’t yet have much experience with this variety, after two years of production, it is clear Grüner will produce considerably more than our other vines.

Alas, the question of which varieties are the most difficult to grow is a subjective one. Of all the grapes grown by Chehalem, Pinot Noir is the most expensive to produce, but more because of low yields than high inputs—although we do spend more time in certain high-end Pinot blocks. Riesling is slightly less expensive to grow because of higher yields, simpler canopy management, and less disease control. However, it is unique and requires more special attention while certain Pinot Noir blocks may get more of the same attention. And Gamay Noir and Grüner are stories for another day!

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31190 NE Veritas Lane • Newberg, OR 97132
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